The Melbourne laneway is dark and cold. My ear adjusting to the sound of muffled voices ahead, my nose twitching as an intensely familiar smell gushes past and lifts up towards the grey October sky, I turn my head to where the action seems to be taking place. A crowd has gathered. They are looking on intently. The overshadowing buildings of Exhibition and Spring streets trap the onlookers. I stand there motionless, exhilarated to be…